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A Patagonia Ferry Adventure and Trek to the End of the Earth: Torres del Paine

Although it might be one of the furthest places on Earth to reach, Torres del Paine Nationwide Park has lately develop into a focal point on many vacationers’ map of the world. The vast majority of guests will attain the Park in the relative consolation and security of a business airliner while a couple of poor souls will endure a seemingly interminable and issue-prone bus journey (30+ hours!?). But for these with the time and chutzpah to attempt something totally different, a third method does exist. Offering extra consolation and scenic selection than both a bus or a aircraft, the ferryboat to the Patagonia is an journey in and of itself that prepares the trendy traveler to greet the marvel of one of the final nice wilderness locations on Earth.

The Difference

Danger, that essential aspect of adventure, was inherent up till the 20th century in almost each sort of travel. So, it seemed fittingly nostalgic to be boarding an ocean-going vessel for a a number of day journey to a spot forgotten by time—the Patagonia.

Long sea voyages and mountain crossings have been once customary for anyone with the urge to travel and a abdomen robust enough to endure the many toils it typically entailed. Nowadays a lot of the unpleasantness has been eliminated from travel and there are a lot of people prepared to pay somewhat one thing additional to put it back in. With prices starting from $450-$2,100 USD, the Navimag ferry from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales isn’t low cost, but contemplating the vacation spot of Torres del Paine—the eighth Marvel of the World—slightly something additional appears to be in order.

Patagonia Ferry Trip

Arriving at the dock at the appointed hour on Friday afternoon, I entered a hall full of bored wanting vacationers deeply lounging in their chairs. There were a number of open seats, so I joined in, ready out the remaining preparations earlier than embarking on our Patagonia ferry voyage to the finish of the world on the paradoxically named ferryboat, Eden.

Again to the Garden . . .

The shut quarters of a contemporary ferry presents relative luxurious as compared to the dank accommodations of an old-time voyage at sea. When not sleeping, reading or chatting over food and drink, one is probably going to be out on the foredeck taking in the impressive seascape or gazing off in the direction of a horizon dotted with clouded, snow-capped peaks. The sense of isolation is superior, and although I had my digital camera ever-present, I couldn’t quite capture the feeling of tranquility that comes from being to date removed from the recognized world.

Patagonian peak seen from Gulfo Corcovado

Patagonian peak seen from Gulfo Corcovado

They say the degree of visibility is a crapshoot, and I counted myself lucky to be basking in a gentle stream of golden sunshine on Saturday afternoon, having born dry witness to morning fog, drizzle and even a snow flurry falling outdoors the window. The widely socked-in mornings supply invites for additional sleep, particularly when out in the open waters of the Pacific, where the waves sing their lumbering lullaby.

Typical view from the foredeck

Typical view from the foredeck

Boat travel by way of the gulfs and fjords of the Chilean Patagonia is essentially sluggish, as the pilot is made to navigate tough straights full of robust winds and unruly currents. This tortoise-like pace allows for the occasional recognizing of marine life together with porpoises and whales, although I mainly keep in mind seeing birds. The sluggish passage additionally allows you to say a mild goodbye to the world you’re abandoning and a smiling hey to the marvel awaiting your arrival.

Sunset or sunrise? It doesn't really matter . . .

Sundown or sunrise? It doesn’t actually matter . . .

Arrival to Puerto Natales

The very first thing one notices down south is the difference in mild and colour. That’s because you’re under the 50th parallel, and daylight hits the region at an indirect angle. The change of lighting supplies a distinct change of perspective, and once you finally step off the boat and onto strong floor, you are feeling that you simply’ve really arrived at some faraway place.

Depending in your itinerary, you may need time for a stroll via city, or you could even select to spend the night in Puerto Natales before heading off into the mountains. Whatever amount of time you will have, it’s clever to replenish on goods for the trail, as prices go sky high as you strategy the park. A Unimarc grocery retailer in the middle of city has all the things you could need, but I might also advocate a go to to the Dried Fruit Guy (Baquedano 443), whose prices are low and selection vast, making it straightforward to assemble a singular trail mix (raspberry peanuts? Yes, please!).

Should you need to lease any gear in your trek or want to meet different vacationers, Erratic Rock is the place. In addition to the gear store and hostel (they offer a free night time stay to anyone who can do 150 push-ups!), Erratic Rock also boasts a hip little café with an open mic, making it a cushty place to take pleasure in the fruits of civilization earlier than having to step out and courageous the infamous Patagonian weather. For a great listing of advisable clothing/gear, as well as basic park logistics, click on right here.

When you’ve got your personal car, access to the park is by way of Route 9, which may be joined on the north aspect of city. For these and not using a car, transportation choices differ, but Buses Pacheco appears to have its act collectively, with service all through the space together with buses departing for the park every hour between 7:30 am and 2:00 pm throughout peak season. In case you are staying at a hostel in Puerto Natales, you possibly can organize for a decide up at the doorstep. Anticipate to pay around $20-25 USD for an open-ended spherical trip ticket. Inquire with the bus company relating to decide up occasions/places.

Refugio Hopping Amid las Torres

Refugios (mountain huts) are a well known and oft utilized asset for a lot of trekkers, although they could be somewhat of a novelty to the typical North American used to “roughing it” whilst out on a camping journey with buddies or household. Part of Europe’s civilizing legacy, a refugio carries primary trendy facilities within the timeless setting of a mountain wilderness. As well as to offering a welcomed shelter for the weary trekker, refugios in Torres del Paine supply a number of conveniences, especially for the hiker touring alone.

Apart from the apparent comforts of bed and tub (deliver your personal toiletries, together with towel), the park’s refugios have meals out there for buy ($55 USD per day received me 3 meals including a bag lunch for the trail). This eliminates the time and power of meals preparation from the agenda, allowing you to concentrate on the pure enjoyment of being in one of the most lovely locations on Earth.

Another perk of staying in the refugios is the social facet; it’s fairly straightforward to meet people and make climbing plans do you have to want to not go for it alone out on the path. Refugios are in the business of taking care of you, and they take this charge critically. Throughout each examine in I used to be issued my meal tickets for the period of my keep at that exact refugio and requested about any dietary restrictions, which have been properly accommodated for all through my stay in the park.

As well as to prepared foods, refugios also have assorted beverages available. Don’t fear, this isn’t the ferry; alcoholic drinks are served. Boxed pink wine ($7 USD) proved a well-liked selection for the mid-budget crowd at Refugio Torre Central, whereas Refugio Los Cuernos had huge bottles of Patagonian helles available (one of the wonderful brews by Cervecería Austral). There’s nothing higher than uncorking or uncapping a bottle (or a box) of some selection beverage after an extended day of mountaineering via the incomparable magnificence found all through Torres del Paine.

‘The Little U’

Once you inform someone that you simply’re going trekking in Torres del Paine, you’ll virtually invariably be asked whether or not you’re doing the ‘O’ mountaineering circuit— a challenging and adventurous 7-10 day circumambulation of the park—or “just the ‘W’”, a scenic and somewhat demanding tour of the highlights, often finished in four or 5 days. A overwhelming majority opt for the latter, however for many who need to go all out, a 3rd choice exists, ‘The Q’, which is a 9-10 day jobber greatest fitted to very experienced trekkers. Having made my plans at the final minute, I used to be restricted to a fast and soiled ‘there and back again’ hike that I dubbed, ‘The Little U’.

Although I used to be touring alone, I wasn’t alone for long. After checking in at Refugio Torre Central, I laid down for a fast siesta in my bunk and then headed to the dining corridor for some vittles. The hostess took my meal ticket (don’t lose those!) and seated me at a table with another visitors of the refugio. I jumped proper into the melee of excited chatter, and with smiles and laughter shortly earned my place at table–as well as a share of the ruby-red nectar from the gal seated beside me. I soon had a salad set before me (tomato, chard and hearts of palm), adopted by merluza (hake) with mashed potatoes, continued the chitchat till both my plate and the field of wine being shared have been empty. I accepted the supply of a nightcap from my new companions, solidifying the bond that may hold us collectively the following day as we battled gravity and extreme winds to arrive at the base of the fabled towers.

Las Torres are somewhere over the rainbow!

Las Torres are somewhere over the rainbow!

Waking up with the rabble round 7 am, I acquired my pack sorted with the right mix of gear, snacks and surprises before cramming in a hurried breakfast. Searching the window, I noticed my new pals gathered and waiting. Another gulp of coffee and I used to be out the door and previous yet one more rainbow as we started the steep ascent on the trail to the base of las Torres.

The winds greeted us GOOD MORNING as we turned the corner on the lip of the canyon overlooking Camp Chileno. I whooped again at the wind whereas two of my companions have been pinned down, clinging to a rock, wanting a bit of fearful as gusts of 50 mph wind threatened to peel them right off the path. Collectively, we cleared this psychological hurdle and descended to the canyon bottom where Camp Chileno offered a proper toilet break for the women. More forested walking gave method to open sky and a view of the remaining strategy, twisting up an exposed rocky slope atop which houses the basic viewpoint of las Torres del Paine. The mirador (viewpoint) makes for a perfect lunch spot, where shelter from the wind could be had tucked between the boulders. Permit all day for the round trip, and much of the night for camaraderie over boxed wine.

A view of the final approach to Las Torres mirador

A view of the last strategy to Las Torres mirador

“How long is it between las Torres and Los Cuernos?” This was the million-dollar query on everybody’s lips. The answer I got here up with: it relies upon on which method you’re going. During my second day trek, I was stopped each 15 minutes by the arresting energy of the scenery. The uncommon, sunny day and warm companionship of fellow hikers made for a soothing walk with ample time taken for appreciation of the views. This leisurely tempo resulted in those 12 km taking all day. A few days afterward my method out I used to be underneath time strain to catch a shuttle and was in a position to hustle the similar path in about three hours, but I’ve lengthy legs. Assume a minimal of four hours for the common mortal.

Sadly, I had a bit more climbing to do to spherical out Day 2, as I was booked that evening at the newest refugio, Los Domos Francés. I decided there was enough time to a minimum of stop and share a beer with my mountaineering buddies, and thus refreshed, was in a position to sling on my pack and clock another 45 minutes of climbing from Los Cuernos, arriving at the Los Domos round nightfall. I had sufficient time for a quick shower before sitting down to a delicious meal in the cozy eating hut, after which I settled into my bunk for an uninterrupted sleep.

The shiny new Domos Frances

The shiny new Domos Frances

Los Domos Francés is so new it felt like the paint was nonetheless drying. Pipes operating above ground alongside untrodden footpaths accentuated the minimalist design, which seems to be as sturdy as it is Spartan. By subsequent season I imagine things can be more primped and properly ordered, but the lodge is certain to stay a no frills affair; there’s nothing at Los Domos Francés to detract from it’s raison d’être—The Paine River—these myriad shades of blue discovered throughout the park, particularly in Lake Nordenskiöld.

One of the many shades of blue that gives Paine its name

One of the many shades of blue that provides Paine its identify

Day 3 of my journey proved to be the grittiest. After reuniting with my partners from the previous day’s hike thanks to slightly trail magic, we set out for Campo Italiano, a naked bones backpackers’ camp where trekkers are in a position to depart their heavy packs earlier than attempting on French Valley. A troublesome, but lovely trail of 11 km-15 km spherical trip (depending in your turnaround level), the means leads previous the ramshackle Campo Britanico to a powerful mirador in a tree-cleared avalanche zone, and a bit further on up the path has a more expansive mirador that encompasses the coronary heart of the Paine massif. Many agree that this isn’t only the most spectacular scenery in the park, but in addition the most troublesome leg of the ‘W’. The problem of the path is made much more difficult by the cauldron of dangerous climate that’s commonly conjured up in that grand cirque of peaks.

After a fast coffee break at Campo Italiano my companions and I set out and by eleven we’d cleared a patch of low-canopied forest only to be met headlong by a withering gale of icy winds and whipping rain. “Let’s huddle together and discuss our options,” I advised to my mates. “I think I know what’s up ahead,” I stated. “Suffering.” Just then two hikers emerged from the thick of the storm. “See anything up there?” I requested one of them. “Yeah. More clouds, and more rain.”

My companions and I opted to return to the cooking shack at Campo Italiano for more espresso and sandwiches. Each half hour or so, one other group of soaking wet hikers would enter the hut and attempt to heat themselves up. They appeared shell-shocked, every last one of them. Round 1 pm the storm had lifted, and we determined to make a go of it once extra. By mid-afternoon, we reached a clearing and by some miracle the clouds opened up to reveal a heart-stopping panorama that defies description. Our enjoyment of the illustrious views was halted after a couple of minutes as circumstances began to deteriorate, so we made our means again down again, feeling fortunate to have seen something in any respect.

At Campo Italiano, I parted ways with my companions, as they have been heading onwards and I had to head again. Rain accompanied me along the well beyond Los Domos Francés and down to the lakeshore where the pebble-strewn beaches seem uncut by human visitors.

The trail abuts the lake for a bit

The trail abuts the lake for a bit

Los Cuernos has the dominant presence of Zion National Park in Utah, however with the crisp water features of Yosemite in spring and with infinitely fewer visitors. I slipped off my moist boots at the door to the refugio (the just one where this curious custom was observed) and settled into my room and into some dry clothes. Since the refugios have been meeting my primary wants, my pack was relatively mild, and I had room for a bottle of Terra Andina Carmenère, which I stealthily uncorked and shared with my tablemates (BYO is seemingly taboo). With very little help, I finished the bottle with my meal and slept like a baby, up and at ‘em early, having elected the 7:30 am breakfast slot during examine in to permit me sufficient time for my hurried last day of walking. It was exhausting to depart, however with a lot left unseen, I know for positive that I might be again again sometime.

Logistics on Land

Reserving your stay prematurely for Torres del Paine is advisable, as the refugios get pretty packed. I can solely imagine that increased visitation to the park goes to put a fair tighter squeeze on the restricted quantity of beds. Earlier than I used to be in a position to take pleasure in the convivial environment of Refugio Torre Central, I used to be pressured to tangle with the paperwork—the refugios insist on seeing your passport and vacationer card, or you will pay the 19% ‘value-added tax’. Los Domos Frances and Refugio Los Cuernos have been a bit extra relaxed, however I nonetheless had to pony up a nominal payment. It’s value negotiating if you understand some Spanish; or better yet—convey your paperwork and avoid the problem!

Costs range based mostly on the sort of accommodation you choose, but a mattress in a refugio averages round $50 USD per night time. I paid $500 USD for 4 nights of lodging in shared dormitories, together with a full meal plan. There are two corporations that handle the refugios in the park: Fantastico Sur, which manages the refugios on the japanese aspect of the park, and Vértice Patagonia, which operates the amenities on the western aspect.

For extra options of accommodation outdoors the park, take a look at the options on

Logistics at Sea

Throughout the excessive season (October 31 to March 31st) the Navimag ferry sets out from Puerto Montt every Friday around 8 pm arriving in Puerto Natales Monday earlier than midday (Navimag presents one other ferry service in the off-season). Baggage check-in is between 9 am-1 pm on Friday, and boarding begins at 5 pm, adopted by a safety speak and the night meal at 8 pm.

Be advised, consumption of alcohol just isn’t permitted aboard the ferry, but this rule does not seem to be strictly enforced. Fare consists of 3 meals a day, and the food is of respectable quality and quantity. Consuming water and tea service is repeatedly obtainable, however it doesn’t harm to convey a couple of bottles of beverage simply to be protected (perhaps of the clandestine selection). You’ll discover issues get pretty wavy by the time you attain the Pacific Ocean Saturday night, so bringing some type of treatment for sea-sickness is advisable.

Issues to See Nearby

For extra assist in your stay in Torres del Paine, Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas head here.

Patagonia is an extended journey from in all places, if in case you have time think about visiting El Calafate, Argentina, and the glacier region. Word for those who cross into Argentina verify to see in case you are required to pay the reciprocity charge. In case you are, you should pay online and print out your cost receipt before you arrive at the border. In the event you’re planning on driving a rental automotive you’ll also need to get particular permission, and documentation, to take the automotive into Argentina, ask about this earlier than you reserve your automotive.

Further south in Argentina is the town of Ushuaia. Whereas the city itself shouldn’t be apparently much to take a look at, it’s a departure level for boat excursions to Tierra del Fuego surrounds, and Antarctica.

Trips to Antarctica are usually not low cost, however when you can afford it, don’t miss this incredible alternative. Take a look at excursions from corporations similar to G Adventures, Antarctica Travels, Intrepid, Adventure Life and Polar Cruises.

If you would like to see extra of the lovely Patagonia panorama by sea, you’ll be able to take a cruise round the continent!

If you would like to explore more of Chile’s lake district near Puerto Montt throughout your trip, take a look at lovely Lago Llanquihue and extra.


Notice: This story was accurate when revealed. Please make sure to affirm all details immediately with the sites in question earlier than planning your trip.

To study more about Matteo, read his bio!

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